SOP FOR GARMENT MANUFACTURING COMPANY
RECOMMENDED SOP FOR GARMENT INDUSTRY [SOP]
Posted on February 13, 2017 by qiod
QIOD RECOMMENDED STANDARD OPERATING PROCEDURES [ SOP]
Fabric Cutting Department
The standard operating procedures for the cutting room are recommended by QIOD inspection services to insure the maximum quality of cutting and efficiency of the cutting department.
FABRIC
When the fabric is inspected and ready to cut, the cutting department should start to spread the fabric for certain hours to relax the fabric. [duration may be depend nature of the fabric] , some tips
The Layer spreading heights should not be more than to the following chart for the better result..
The recommended ply height for Woven fabric is as follows.
• Lightweight woven fabric – 80- 90 ply
• Medium weight woven fabric – 120-130 ply
• Heavy weight woven fabric – 90- 100 ply
The recommended ply height for knits is as follows:
• Knits that have a definite stripe or pattern match – 40-50 ply
• Stretch knits – 40-50 ply
• High Pile knits – 35-40 ply
• Rib knits –40- 50 ply
Things need to be taken care of during the spreading and cutting process.
A, Use thin ply paper in between the rolls to control slippage and shades.
B, Use nails for the check and strip to keep the matching requirements, and the lay is recommended no longer than two garments, preference is one garment lay.
C, To maintain the correct seam allowance and the garment will be on spec ,we recommend that all cutting be done on the outside of the marker.
D, All notches must be cut into the piece. The notch depth should not be more than the half of seam allowance.
E, Once cutting is complete, the QA inspector must evaluate the accuracy of cutting by checking the top, middle and bottom ply of each part against a hard pattern. At this time, notch position and depth also needs to be verified.
F, After cutting, the cut pieces should be bundled and a copy of bundling details to be issued for the sewing department along with the bundles.
G, To avoid the error in joining parts from different plays to each other there will be a numbering process to be taken place and the number should not be repeated during the numbering process.
SEWING DEPARTMENT
We require that each of our factories follow certain procedure on the sewing floor in order for them to maintain the standard quality level what is Globally required .
1.Prior to the start of production there should be a PP[ Pre-Production] meeting held with the factory production manager, the sewing supervisors, quality manager and production merchandiser who handling the particular buyer a/c . During this meeting, buyer’s comments if any, during the PP sample approval process for the fit, construction and sewing specifications should be reviewed and discussed. If there any special equipment requirements for the construction process should be discussed. Required seam allowances, stitches per inch (SPI) and general sewing requirements should be discussed during this meeting.
11.The specifications should be translated into the local language of the factory supervisors so that they may better be able to understand the requirements.
111. A sealed [ Approved PP sample ] sample should be reviewed during the meeting and hand over to the floor supervisor while the production is on the sewing floor as a reference.
IV , Each sewing section should have assigned inspectors to monitor the quality being produced in that section. The sample and the construction specifications need to be reviewed with the inspectors to insure that they understand what is required of each operation. The inspectors should visit every operator in alternative hours to ensure all comments are incorporated correctly.
V. There must be an initial checking department at the end of each line to check each unit before it goes to the finishing department . They must also check the measurement apart from sewing and construction. If there any sewing defects or measurement problems arise, the inspectors should call the sewing line supervisor and review these defects. So that the problems fixed well in advance before the final stage.
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS WOVEN PRODUCTS
Components & Findings
16 line button or larger – minimum of 18 stitch Components and findings must be compatible with base shell fabric. All components and findings must meet safety and performance standards
Decorative:
- Embroidery must have reinforced backing:
- lightweight tear away or dissolvable
- backing left on finished garment must be minimal
- Ribbons, bows, and other decorative items must be securely stitched.
- Smocking panels must have finished ends secured. Elastic:
- All elastic must have 100% minimum stretch.
- All elastic must meet specified recovery before and after washing.
- All elastic must be pre-shrunk. Fasteners:
- All fasteners & closures must be from a recommended source.
- All fasteners & closures must meet or exceed performance standards for care, durability, ease of use, and safety
- All fasteners must be through a minimum of two ply of fabric and reinforced with interlining.
Thread:
- All thread must match unless otherwise specified.
- Thread size and composition must be compatible to base fabric, components
Seams & Stitching
All seams must be secured by one of the following:
- bartack
- being caught in the intersecting seam or stitch
- back stitch a minimum of 4 stitches
- coverstitching and topstitching with a 4 stitch over run in an inconspicuous location
Exposed raw edges are not acceptable, unless enclosed.
Sharp point needles must be used on all products unless ball point needles are more appropriate for the fabric type.
Needle size must be compatible with fabric, trim, thread size and construction application. Needle usage must be monitored and replaced as needed to prevent fabric damage. Internal seam construction:
- 5 thread overlock (safetystitch) or felled seam as specified
- 4 thread double needle overlock
- 10-12 stitches per inch (will vary by fabric) refer to tech pack for final SPI. Topstitching 8-10 stitches per inch (will vary by fabric) refer to tech pack for final SPI. Stitching must not be visible on the finished garment.
Buttons – must meet standards for application as follows:
14 line button or smaller – minimum of 9 stitch count
- Buttons must be attached through a minimum of two ply fabric with interlining reinforced.
- Products must be pressed unbuttoned to avoid distorted edges.
- Products must be sufficiently pressed, but not hard pressed or over pressed.
- Products must not be moist when sealed in plastic bags.
- Must be lock stitched.
- Spacer depth must be appropriate for fabric thickness.
- Thread shank will be required as specified. Buttonholes
- Size must be appropriate for button size and fabric type.
- Size must allow easy buttoning and security when closed.
- Must be lockstitched and be fully covered without exposing fabric edges. Stitching guidelines are as follows:
Ligne Size Total Needle Drops in Buttonhole
16 ligne or smaller 90
18 – 22 100
24 – 27 120
30 – 36 150
- Buttonholes must to be
- through a minimum of two ply fabric with interlining reinforcement.
- Must be cleanly cut. Center Front Opening
- Must be faced or clean finished
- Right over left – women’s & girls closure unless specified differently in tech pack.
Hems
- All hems must be in the round (circular, side seamed then hemmed).
- Blindstitch hems must be secured with overlock or tape and overrun.
- Self-turn hems must be double turned and stitched or as specified in tech pack. Side Vents
- Must be clean finished (double fold with single needle topstitch) unless otherwise specified.
- Bar tack at stress point unless otherwise specified.
- Garment must be bottom hemmed before vent is sewn.Finishing (pressing & trimming)
- Threads must be trimmed and removed from garment.
- Products must be pressed unbuttoned to avoid distorted edges.
- Products must be sufficiently pressed, but not hard pressed or over pressed.
- Embroidery must have reinforced backing
- Lightweight tear away or dissolvable
- Backing left on finished garment must be minimal
- Ribbons, bows and other decorative trims must be securely stitched
- Smocking panels must have finished ends secured
- All elastic must have 100% minimum stretch
- All elastic must have specified recovery before and after washing
- All elastic must be pre-shrunk
- All fasteners & closures must be from a recommended source
- Must meet or exceed performance standards for care, durability, ease of use and safety.
- All fasteners must go through a minimum of two ply of fabric and reinforced with interlining
- Metal fasteners must be rust proof, corrosion resistant, and nickel free
- All thread must match unless otherwise specified.
- Monofilament thread is not acceptable.
- Size and composition must be compatible to base fabric, components and application
- All seams must be secured by one of the following:
- Backstitch a minimum of 4 stitches
- Bartack
- Being caught in an intersecting seam or stitch
- Coverstitching or topstitching with a 4 stitch over run in an inconspicuous location
- Raw edges are unacceptable, unless otherwise specified
- Ballpoint needles must be used on all production
- Needle usage must be monitored and replaced as needed to prevent fabric damage.
- Internal seam construction:
- 4 thread overlock (mock safety) for exposed seams
- 10-12 stitches per inch (will vary with fabric weight)
- Minimum of ¼” seam allowance unless otherwise specified
- Topstitch 8-10 stitches per inch (will vary with fabric weight and desired aesthetic)
- Staystitching must not be visible on finished garment
- Buttons
- Must meet standards for applications as follows:
Products must not be moist when sealed in plastic bags.
MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION STANDARDS CUT & SEW KNITS
Components & Findings
Components and findings must be compatible with base shell fabric, additional components and application method. All components and trim items must meet safety and performance standards.
Decorative:
Elastic:
Fasteners & Closures
Thread:
Seams & Stitching
